“Olives, citrus fruits and wine are key elements in Pugliese cooking. Bari, the capital, has a strong seafood diet, being one of the biggest ports in the region. There’s a beautiful balance here between the seafood, the light white bombino bianco wine and the herbs and delicate spices.”

Serves 6
Cooking Time Prep time 20 mins, cook 30 mins (plus marinating)

1    sea bream (about 1.5kg), cleaned
½    parsnip, cut into batons
750 ml    Fedora white wine (see note)
100 ml    olive oil
50 gm    sultanas
½    onion, diced
¼ cup    coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1    fresh bay leaf
1    garlic clove, finely chopped
For drizzling:    extra-virgin olive oil

1  Cut fish widthways into 6 to 8 portions (cut through the flesh and bone at the centre but leave spine and belly intact so the fish holds together during cooking). Place in a cast-iron or flameproof baking dish with parsnip, add wine and oil, scatter with sultanas, onion, herbs and garlic. Season to taste and refrigerate for 1 hour, then bring to the simmer over a low-medium heat and simmer until fish is cooked and liquid is reduced by half (25-30 minutes). Serve hot drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil.

Note: Fedora by Rivera is a light dry white wine made from bombino bianco and pampanuto grapes. If unavailable, substitute another other dry white wine.

Drink Suggestion 2008 Terravecchia Biancalunga Falanghina.